We are working on a seastead design. The goal is to design our seastead such that all the parts can pack into a single a High Cube 45 foot container which has: width 7.7 ft height 8.9 ft length 44.6 ft max weight: 62,000 lbs (rated bouyancy at desired waterline is 27,500 lbs and we hope structure is enough under this that humans and their stuff can fit) Above the water there will be a big equilateral triangle frame, 44.0 feet on a side. The triangle frame is also the wall of the living area and will be 7 feet high (floor to ceiling). It will be enclosed and the whole inside the living area. Around the whole outside of the wall, except where the dinghy is in the back, will be a 3 foot wide walkway and railing that is bolted on and has some diagonal supports from below bracing to the wall (so walkway is 1 food higher than bottom of the wall). The walkway will have an aluminum grating that would let a wave pass through but you can walk on. Also two doors on the back side, one two feet in from left and one two feet in from the right side. There are 3 legs/floats/foils/wings/keels that provide the buoyancy, so it is a bit like a trimaran but with a very soft ride. Each leg/wing will 14.5 feet long and have a NACA 0040 foil shape with 8.5 foot chord except that the last 0.5 feet of the thinnest part will be cut short, so with foil does not come to a point at the trailing edge and fits within 8.9 feet hight of container. But the buoyancy is very close to that of an 8.5 foot chord foil. Each of the 3 legs will be attached to the underside of the big triangle near one of the 3 points. The center of the thickest part and going 1.5 feet in all directions from there will be within the area of the triangle, but within that constraint, each leg will be as close to the point of the triangle as possible. The legs will go down so that the lower half is in the water. This makes for a bit of "small waterline area" similar like a small oil platform but one that can move through the water easier because of the foil shape. It is not an extreme SWATH design as a 1 foot change in water level is about 1/7th of the total buoyancy, so still significant change. The 3 legs will all be parallel with the blunt or "leading edge of the wing" side facing forward so it is lower drag when moving forward than a typical cylinder on a semi-submersible platform. Each leg will be 50% under the water (so 0.5 * 14.5 feet) and the top 50% out of the water. On the top half of the front of each leg, so the top half that is out of the water, will be a built in ladder. The reason for these sizes for the triangle and legs is so they can pack into a container nicely and shipped to a shipyard anywhere for assembly. Imagine the 3 legs end-to-end with thin/trailing-edge of foil up and leading edge down on the right side of the container. So the right 3.4 feet of the container (width of legs) is used by the 3 legs. Then the 3 frame/wall sections will be upright (so 7 feet high) next to each other along the left side of the container. I am not sure the width of the walls but if they were 10 inches wide then 3 widths is 30 inches and some extra is 3 feet on the left side. There should still be lots of room in the center of the container for all the other parts. Connecting the mid points of the walls both at floor and ceiling level will be structural beams that make another triangle 22 feet on a side. Then all the remaining spans will be less than 22 feet. The rest of the floor and ceiling will be small pieces that are bolted in. On top of the roof there will be solar all over. With batteries and electric thrusters as the main propulsion system. There will be 6 RIM drive thrusters of 1.5 foot diameter, one on each side of the 3 legs/wings about 2 feet up from the bottom. These RIM drives will be all be fixed orientation to provide forward thrust. It will use differential thrust to turn. For slow movements in tight areas like harbors it can reverse thrust on one side and forward on the other to turn in place. There will be a conduit/pipe welded to the back of the trailing edge to take electrical wires down to the thrusters. There will not be any "through hulls" in the legs. The legs will also have multiple airtight compartments each for safety. Behind the back near the center will be two supports going out and 2 ropes going down to a dinghy. The dinghy is a 14 foot RIB boat (deflated for shipping) with an electric Yamaha HARMO outboard. It is sideways against the center of the backside of the living area. When the seastead is moving forward the dingy is shielded from the wind by the living area. On the lower part of each leg will be several bolt on heave plates. These will help dampen the response to waves. About 25% of the displacement will be for LiPo4 batteries which will be put low in the 3 legs. Each leg will have its own charge controller and inverter so there is triple redundant power on the seastead. Also, the thrusters for a leg will get power from that leg's inverter or batteries. So the 3 pairs of thrusters will have independent failure modes as far as power. When the seastead is going to be staying in one place for awhile, we can put down 3 helical mooring screws and give the seastead tension legs so it becomes nearly stationary when parked. Near each corner there will be a pair of helical mooring screws with a motor unit between them. We only plan to do this in the Caribbean where tides are very small and in protected places where the saves are small, so pulling down 3 feet will be sufficient to never go slack. Two seasteads will be able to connect together with a walkway, one behind the other, so that while underway people can move between seasteads, enabling a real community. The two computers for the two seastead will both work thrusters to minimize the movement of the walkway, particularly when warned that someone will be on it. We want to have a trailer hitch ball, or maybe a pintel hitch, at the front and back center of each seastead that we can install a rope bridge that goes between 2 seasteads. There will be a rope bridge that can be installed between two seasteads using a hitch on each one so one person at a time could go between the seasteads. It can also just be used to tow a seastead that has had trouble. Imagine we have two hand rail ropes that are taking the tension and then suspended below them a third rope for walking on. The end of the hand rail ropes will have a metal triangle with one point having a hitch connection to connect to the seastead and the opposite side keeping the two ropes apart with one rope attached to each of the other two points on the metal triangle. Imagine a single 250 lbs person is on center of this 40 foot rope bridge. How much sag is there if there is 2500 lbs total tension? How much if 1000 lbs total tension? Imagine the 4 motors in front seastead are thrusting at 750 lbs each for a total of 3000 lbs and the motors on the seastead in back are off. The two seasteads have the same amount drag so half the thrust will be used up on each, or 1500 lbs on each. If the second seastead has 1500 lbs of drag and the pull is coming from the rope bridge then the tension on the rope bridge is 1500 lbs. How hard would it be to send 6000 watts of power from the following seastead to the leading seastead? How do we do it so it does not try to send far more than 6000 watts? What would it cost for all the stuff needed? Instead of sending power from the back one to the front we could just have a very small tension normally, like 300 lbs, and then when someone is on the bridge it could be increased to 2000 lbs or something. We could have a light/laser beam that someone breaks when they walk onto the bridge, or a button they push before going on, or a security camera with AI that can tell when someone is going on the bridge. This way only for brief periods would the front seastead have to use much more power than the back to have high tension. How would you recommend doing this? Imagine we want the rope bridge to be made out of Nylon so it has plenty of stretch in case a wave pulls on one seastead before the other and we want it to have 15,000 lbs break strength. How much do you think it would weigh? How much do you think it would cost? What size trailer hitch or pintel hitch would be rated for 15,000+ lbs? If one person attaches one end of the bridge to the hitch on his seastead and then takes a lead line and walks down the float on his seastead while someone on the other seastead walks down the stairs on the leg on his seastead the two people should be within rope throwing distance. After the second guy catches the lead rope he can pull up his end of the bridge and attach it to the hitch on his seastead. Then the front seastead can start pulling on the brige to give it the tension. It probably is not too hard to setup. Once there people can go back and forth between the two seasteads. Probably this works for 3 or 4 connected together in moderate waves, right? So you could have a real seastead community. The people setting up the seastead should probably have a safety rope attached to them before they they walk down the legs and work on setting up the bridge. I have some land by a rocky shore in Anguilla where I think it is deep enough for the seastead just 30 feet out. If I had a concrete fixture on shore with the right kind of hitch for the rope bride it may be reasonable to connect the bridge between the seastead and shore. The wind is blowing away from shore so the natural inclination would be for the seastead to be pulling on the bridge if it were connected to shore at this spot. Try to draw an image with two seasteads and rope bridge like the above between them.