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Dinghy “tug” concept using Yamaha HARMO 3.7 kW – feasibility notes
Emergency “tug dinghy” for a 40 ft × 40 ft seastead using Yamaha HARMO 3.7 kW
Safety / engineering disclaimer: This is not a substitute for a naval architect / marine engineer review.
Towing and control in waves/wind can create very large dynamic loads and unstable behavior. Please treat the numbers below as
rough order-of-magnitude checks, not a design sign-off.
1) Are there electric outboards more “efficient” than HARMO at static thrust?
You quoted 227 lbf bollard (static) thrust for the HARMO 3.7 kW. That’s a strong number for that power class.
A few important caveats:
- Bollard thrust is not standardized across brands (test conditions vary: prop, duct, water temp/salinity, battery voltage, measurement method).
- Ducted props often look “amazing” at static/very low speeds (good for tugging), but do not necessarily remain the most efficient at higher speeds.
- What matters for your use case (low speed tugging) is mostly low-speed thrust and continuous thermal rating, not top speed.
Using your figures, the “static thrust per kW” is roughly:
- HARMO: 227 lbf / 3.7 kW ≈ 61 lbf per kW (≈ 272 N/kW)
I have seen comparable “high thrust per kW” claims from some ducted/low-speed electric pods and from certain large-prop trolling
systems, but in the consumer outboard space the HARMO number is indeed near the top if the test method is comparable.
If you want a truly apples-to-apples comparison, ask each vendor for:
- Measured bollard thrust at a stated voltage, in seawater/freshwater, with prop model stated
- Continuous input power and duration before derating
- Efficiency vs. boat speed curve (rarely provided)
Reference: Yamaha HARMO product page:
https://yamahaoutboards.com/outboards/harmo/3-7kw
2) Can Yamaha set up 3 HARMOs (triple mode) if they support “twin mode”?
I would not assume that “twin mode” automatically implies “triple mode,” especially on a new product line.
In Yamaha’s ecosystem, multi-engine control capability depends on:
- Which control system is supported (Helm Master EX vs other rigging)
- Which engines/drives are on the supported list
- The specific software configuration and network topology
For many Yamaha setups, triple/quad configurations exist on certain conventional outboards, but that does not guarantee the HARMO 3.7 kW
is supported in triple under Helm Master EX.
Practical approach: Ask Yamaha (or an authorized Helm Master EX installer) a very specific question:
“Can Helm Master EX control three HARMO 3.7 kW drives as a single vessel profile with joystick, and what part numbers are required?”
If they say “no,” your fallback is independent control (three throttles/commands) or a third-party control approach (more custom engineering).
3) What do “Helm Master EX,” “joystick,” “remote control,” and “DES” mean?
| Term |
What it generally means (plain English) |
Why it matters to you |
| Helm Master EX |
Yamaha’s integrated boat control system. It ties together throttle/shift (or thrust command), steering, and sometimes autopilot/positioning features depending on configuration. |
This is the “brain” that can coordinate multiple drives and enable joystick docking-style control. |
| Joystick |
A helm input device for low-speed maneuvering: push the stick and the system automatically mixes thrust and steering to move sideways/diagonal/rotate. |
Potentially useful if you want the dinghy to act like a controllable tug. But only if triple-drive support exists and the dinghy geometry allows stable control. |
| Remote control |
Typically the helm station throttle/command interface (often binnacle-style). For electrics, it may be “thrust forward/reverse + power level,” not mechanical shift. |
This is how a person normally operates the propulsion from the driver position (as opposed to a tiller on the motor). |
| DES (Digital Electric Steering) |
Steer-by-wire: the helm sends electrical commands to a steering actuator; no mechanical cable steering linkage. “Digital” integration enables joystick and multi-engine coordination. |
Good for remote helm placement and potentially longer runs than mechanical steering cables, but you’re limited by Yamaha harness rules and voltage-drop constraints. |
Exact feature availability and wiring constraints depend on the HARMO rigging kit and what Yamaha allows for that product line.
4) Would ~700 lbf thrust move a ~30,000 lb seastead at ≥ 0.5 mph in calm water?
In dead calm, probably yes. The bigger issue is wind and waves, not the bare underwater drag at 0.5 mph.
4.1 Rough calm-water drag check (very approximate)
At 0.5 mph (≈ 0.22 m/s), drag is often modest because drag scales with V². If your underwater projected area is large
(angled 4 ft “columns” + cables), it still may not be huge at 0.22 m/s.
A crude order-of-magnitude example using a drag equation:
- Assume projected underwater area A ≈ 15–25 m² (this could be wrong either way depending on geometry and direction)
- Drag coefficient Cd ≈ 1 (bluff bodies)
- Seawater density ρ ≈ 1025 kg/m³
- Speed V ≈ 0.22 m/s
Then F ≈ 0.5 * ρ * Cd * A * V² becomes on the order of a few hundred newtons
(~50–200 lbf). That suggests that in calm water your proposed ~700 lbf bollard thrust has margin to reach 0.5 mph.
4.2 Wind dominates quickly
Against wind, required thrust can jump dramatically. For example, with a large platform and any topside structure, windage force can be hundreds to thousands of lbf in moderate/strong winds.
Rule-of-thumb: wind force also scales with V².
- In a 10–15 kt breeze, you may still make some headway with ~700 lbf if the platform windage is not extreme.
- In a 20+ kt wind or steep seas, a small “tug dinghy” is likely not a reliable propulsion solution for controlling/relocating the seastead.
Interpretation: Your idea is plausible as a “get unstuck / reposition in mild conditions / limp-home” method.
It is not a storm survival propulsion system.
5) Can the HARMO be controlled from the seastead with nobody in the dinghy?
Technically you can sometimes extend controls on modern electric/DBW systems, but practically there are major constraints:
- Regulatory/safety: Operating an unmanned powered vessel (even a dinghy) is often not legal, not insurable, and is high risk.
- Failure modes: If the dinghy yaws, broaches, takes a wave, loses comms, snags the towline, or the towline parts, you can create a collision hazard or lose the dinghy.
- Kill switch / E-stop: Many systems assume an operator present. You would want a hard E-stop that drops thrust immediately.
- Situational awareness: You’d need cameras, reliable low-latency link, and a defined “safe behavior” on link loss.
5.1 “What is the control cord like? Can we make it longer?”
I do not have Yamaha’s HARMO harness pinout/maximum harness lengths, and Yamaha may restrict length for voltage drop, EMC/noise, and safety certification reasons.
In general:
- Modern Yamaha digital systems use electrical harnesses (not mechanical push-pull cables).
- Manufacturers typically sell approved extension harnesses in specific lengths.
- “Just splicing in extra wire” can cause warranty, reliability, or safety problems (and sometimes outright doesn’t work).
Best practice: Use only Yamaha-approved harness extensions and ask for the maximum supported helm-to-drive distance for HARMO.
If you need long distances, a more robust architecture is often: put the “controller” close to the drives and run a higher-level network/command link that is designed for longer runs.
6) Electrical power: running a cord from the seastead to the dinghy
If you run three 3.7 kW drives, that’s ~11.1 kW input (plus losses).
The feasibility of “a power cord down from the seastead” depends heavily on the system voltage.
- At 48 V, 11.1 kW implies ~230 A (very high). Cable becomes extremely thick/heavy and voltage drop becomes a serious problem.
- At 96 V, current halves (~115 A), still substantial.
- At high-voltage AC (e.g., 240 VAC) you can run smaller cable, but then you need onboard conversion/charging architecture compatible with the motors (and must manage marine electrical safety: GFCI/RCD, isolation, corrosion, strain relief, wet-mate connectors).
Key point: The power-cable engineering (voltage, connectors, strain relief, wet-mate disconnect, fuse/breaker coordination, galvanic issues)
can become a bigger challenge than the “thrust” question.
7) Towing mechanics: will a dinghy with 1–3 outboards tow a 40×40 platform safely?
Conceptually reasonable, but the details matter a lot. Common failure/instability modes:
- Yaw instability (“fishtailing”): a short towline can cause the dinghy to get pulled around by the platform; too long can create snatch loads.
- Dynamic loads: waves create jerks that can exceed static bollard numbers by a lot; you need a proper tow bridle and chafe protection.
- Freeboard / swamping risk: the dinghy can be pulled backward into waves or rolled by towline forces.
- Steering authority: three drives help, but if the dinghy is light and the towed object is huge, the towed object “wins.”
7.1 Design suggestions (high level)
- Use a tow bridle on the seastead (two strong points far apart) to keep the tow stable.
- Use a floating towline or manage catenary; add chafe gear.
- Prefer a dinghy with wide beam, high reserve buoyancy, self-bailing, and a transom designed for high thrust.
- Consider a push mode (dinghy pushing against a reinforced pad with fenders) only in calm water; towing is usually more controllable offshore.
8) “Because the seastead heaves more than outboard height…” — dinghy mounting vs direct mounting
Your reasoning is sound: if the seastead has significant relative heave between the structure and the free surface,
a rigidly mounted outboard could ventilate (prop out of water) and then slam underwater, causing thrust loss and mechanical stress.
A floating dinghy “tracks” the water surface better.
Alternative solutions (often used on work platforms) include:
- Dedicated submerged thrusters (azimuth or tunnel) mounted deep enough to stay submerged
- A heave-compensated thruster mount (more complex)
9) Finding Chinese 4–5 m HDPE / rotomolded PE utility boats (links + typical costs)
I do not have live web-browsing in this chat, so I cannot verify current listings/prices in real time.
Below are reliable places to search plus typical price bands and what to watch for.
9.1 Where to look (search links)
9.2 Typical cost bands (very approximate; ex-works, before shipping/import)
| Boat type (4–5 m) |
Typical use |
Rough price range (USD) |
Notes |
| Rotomolded PE utility / fishing boat |
Light duty, impact resistant, simple interiors |
$900–$3,500 |
Often lighter/cheaper but may have limited transom reinforcement for high thrust and heavy motors. |
| Welded HDPE workboat |
Commercial utility, heavier structure |
$4,000–$15,000+ |
Better for structural mods and heavy transom loads. Heavier to ship. |
| RIB / aluminum / FRP alternatives |
Common “tender” choices |
Varies widely |
May be easier to reinforce for multi-motor brackets than rotomolded PE. |
9.3 Could a 4–5 m PE boat “handle 3 HARMOs”?
Maybe, but it’s not just “length.” The key constraints are:
- Transom strength and stiffness (static weight + thrust + wave slam)
- Motor spacing (three units across a small transom can interfere with steering/tilt and each other’s inflow)
- Bracket design (you may need a custom multi-engine bracket tied into internal structure)
- Trim / buoyancy (stern squat from motor weight, plus cable/gear)
Rotomolded PE hulls can be tough but are often flexible. High thrust loads may “oil-can” the transom unless specifically designed for it.
A welded HDPE workboat or an aluminum work skiff is often easier to reinforce for multi-engine brackets.
10) Bottom line: Is your “dinghy as emergency tug” plan reasonable?
- Reasonable as a limited emergency capability in mild-to-moderate conditions: repositioning, slow maneuvering, “backup propulsion” when the main mixers/thrusters are unavailable.
- Not sufficient as heavy-weather control for a high-windage 40×40 platform.
- Biggest technical risks: (1) control system limitations for triple mode, (2) power delivery (voltage/current/cables/connectors), (3) towing dynamics and tow-point engineering, (4) structural mounting on a PE dinghy.
11) If you want, I can refine this with a few missing inputs
If you answer these, I can give a much tighter estimate of expected speed and whether 1 vs 2 vs 3 HARMOs is worth it:
- Are the “4 ft wide columns” actually 4 ft diameter cylinders, or something else (rectangular, faired, etc.)?
- Expected freeboard and approximate windage area (square feet/meters of “sail area” above water)?
- Desired emergency scenario: “dead calm reposition” vs “make headway in 15–20 kt wind”?
- What battery/DC bus voltage does the HARMO installation you’re considering use (48V? something else)?
- Tow concept: long towline, short towline, or pushing against a pad?
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