Fresh Air Without the Salt: Intake Design Guidelines for Cruising Boats
Yes — there are well-established guidelines, and the approach used on Steve Dashew's FPB powerboats is a good template: treat salt spray as a droplet problem, not an air problem. Slow the air down, make it change direction several times, give droplets a surface to hit, and give the collected water an easy way back overboard.
1. The Core Principle
Salt spray travels as water droplets with mass. Air can turn sharp corners; droplets can't — they continue straight and hit a surface, where they coalesce and can be drained. Every good marine intake (Dorade box, gooseneck, ship's mist eliminator, the FPB plenums) combines four levers:
- Low velocity — droplet carry-over rises steeply with airspeed.
- Sharp direction changes — at least 2–4 turns of 90° or more before air reaches the cabin.
- A coalescing surface — baffles, chevron vanes, or knitted-mesh demister.
- Generous drainage + shutoff — every low point drains overboard, and the whole thing can be closed watertight in heavy weather.
2. Design Guidelines
2.1 Location and orientation
- Mount the intake high and inboard, ideally in the aft half of the boat — spray is worst at the bow.
- Face the opening away from the apparent wind and spray: aft-facing cowls or a downward-facing gooseneck ingest far less than forward-facing scoops underway.
- A lee-side intake with a small fan works very well: spray impingement on the lee side is dramatically lower.
- Keep well clear of engine/generator exhaust, head vents, and holding-tank vents (CO and odor safety).
2.2 Keep velocities low
- Target a face velocity through louvers and separators of ≤ 2–3 m/s (400–600 fpm) in spray-exposed locations; lower is better.
- This is why good marine plenums look oversized — the area is cheap, and it is what lets the physics work.
2.3 Tortuous path (gooseneck, Dorade, labyrinth)
- Gooseneck: the opening faces straight down; air must make a 180° turn to enter. Simple, robust, classic ship practice.
- Dorade box: a cowl feeds a box; air rises over an internal standpipe into the cabin while water collects in the box and drains overboard. Rule of thumb: box cross-section ≥ 2× the vent-pipe area, top of the standpipe above the bottom of the cowl opening.
- Baffled plenum / chevron vanes: 2–3 zig-zag passes with drain hooks; effective down to roughly 10–20 µm droplets at design velocity.
2.4 Demisters and rain-rated louvers
- Knitted-mesh demister pad (polypropylene or 316L stainless), 100–150 mm thick, at 2–4 m/s face velocity: captures droplets ≳ 5–10 µm with negligible pressure drop.
- Weather louvers rated to EN 13030 Class A/B reject roughly 99%/95% of wind-driven rain (tested at 75 mm/h rain in 13 m/s wind) — a good first stage.
- Avoid fine insect screens at the exposed face: they wet-out, hold a water film, and re-entrain droplets. Keep face mesh coarse.
- Typical order:
louver → baffles → demister → filter → fan → cabin.
2.5 Drainage
- Every low point gets a drain overboard, minimum Ø20–25 mm, at least two per box, discharging above the waterline.
- Provide an air break or loop so the fan can't suck air (and water) back up the drain.
- Size the box for the "green-water gulp": it must swallow and drain a boarding wave without passing water inboard.
- Commission with a washdown hose aimed at the intake — verify the drains keep up and the interior stays dry.
2.6 Heavy-weather shutoff
- Fit a positive watertight closure at the deck penetration, operable from inside. Offshore standards (ISO 12217 downflooding criteria, EU RCD Category A, ABYC guidance) treat any ventilator as a potential downflooding opening — its height matters and it must be closable.
2.7 Fan, filter, and positive pressure
- Use a small variable-speed brushless marine-rated fan (sealed/IP55+; consumer computer fans corrode quickly in salt air).
- Run a slight positive cabin pressure (a few pascals is enough): air leaks outward, so spray and dust don't find their own way in.
- Put a replaceable synthetic pre-filter (~MERV 8) after the demister to catch residual salt before it reaches your interior and electronics.
3. Schematic: Spray-Separating Intake Plenum
4. Rules of Thumb
| Parameter | Guideline |
|---|---|
| Louver / intake face velocity | ≤ 2–3 m/s (≈ 400–600 fpm) in spray-exposed locations |
| Direction changes before cabin | ≥ 2–4 turns of 90° or more |
| Chevron/vane separator | 2–3 passes with drain hooks; effective to ~10–20 µm droplets |
| Knitted-mesh demister | 100–150 mm thick; 2–4 m/s face velocity; captures ≳ 5–10 µm |
| Weather louver rating | EN 13030 Class A/B (≈ 99% / 95% driven-rain rejection) |
| Drains | ≥ 2 × Ø20–25 mm per box, overboard above waterline, air break or loop |
| Continuous fresh air | 10–15 CFM (17–25 m³/h) per person |
| Free-cooling boost | 6–20 air changes per hour for a perceptible breeze |
| Mounting | High, inboard, aft- or down-facing; clear of exhaust and holding-tank vents |
| Closure | Watertight shutoff at the penetration, operable from inside |
| Pressure | Slight positive pressure (a few Pa) maintained by the fan |
| Filter | Replaceable synthetic ~MERV 8, downstream of the demister |
5. Worked Sizing Example
Two crew, continuous trickle of 30 CFM (≈ 51 m³/h), boost to 200 CFM for free cooling:
- Demister for trickle at 2 m/s: 4.7 × 30 ÷ 2 ≈ 70 cm² — palm-sized (≈ 9 × 8 cm).
- Face louver at 1.5 m/s for trickle: ≈ 95 cm² (≈ 10 × 10 cm).
- Demister for 200 CFM boost at 2.5 m/s: ≈ 380 cm² (≈ 25 × 15 cm).
The areas are modest — generous sizing costs almost nothing and is what makes the separation work. For a ~40 m³ interior, 6–20 ACH free cooling means roughly 140–470 CFM of boost capacity.
6. Two Operating Modes
- At anchor / in harbor: spray separation barely matters. Open hatches, use wind scoops and solar vents, and move lots of air. This is your "free cooling" mode.
- Offshore / underway: button up and run the powered trickle through the separator. Slight positive pressure keeps salt out of every other crack, and the A/C handles temperature and humidity.
Designing for both modes means you rarely compromise: big openings for the anchorage, one small well-engineered opening for sea.
7. Pairing with a Solar-Powered A/C
- Mini-splits and most marine A/C units recirculate only — they provide no fresh air. Without a dedicated makeup path, CO₂ and humidity climb even with the A/C running.
- Feed the 10–15 CFM/person trickle into the A/C return so incoming air is cooled and dehumidified before it reaches you.
- A CO₂ monitor is a cheap way to dial fan speed: aim to stay under ~1,000 ppm.
- Optionally add a small HRV/ERV (through-wall units such as the Lunos e², popular in vans and tiny homes) downstream of the demister to recover cooling energy. In the humid tropics choose an ERV, which transfers moisture out of the incoming air.
- With abundant solar, the simplest strategy is to over-ventilate slightly and let the A/C absorb the extra load.
8. Materials and Maintenance
- 316L stainless, HDPE, or PVC in the wet path; isolate dissimilar metals; avoid bare aluminum (crevice/pitting corrosion in salt mist).
- Provide fresh-water rinse access to the cowl, baffles, and demister; salt crystals are your early-warning telltale.
- Inspect the demister annually; replace the pre-filter on a schedule; check drains for blockages.
- Expect some salt over years — design interior surfaces below the intake to tolerate occasional wipe-down.
9. Off-the-Shelf Starting Points
- Dorade boxes and cowl vents: Vetus, Beckson, Sea Dog — proven, cheap, and easy to retrofit.
- Solar mushroom vents (Nicro/Marinco) for anchor-mode exhaust.
- EN 13030-rated weather louvers and knitted-mesh demister pads (AMACS, Koch-Glitsch) for a custom plenum.
- Marine HVAC mist eliminators (Delta T Systems, Munters, Novenco) if you're building a larger trunked system.
- 12 V brushless sealed blowers (IP55 or better) for the fan stage.